This Month

January 2012
SMTWTFS
«Jun  
1234567
891011121314
15161718192021
22232425262728
293031 

Site Selections

Applying Power To The Track

The train track is a make or break deal. The time you put into building and powering the track will be proportional to your enjoyment. Let’s look at three possible power solutions;powered rerailer,powered track jointers,and directly wired track.
powered rerailerFirst the powered rerailer. It was originally designed to solve a need in starter train kits,that is,to provide power to the layout and put locomotives and cars on the track. The rerailer resembles a crossing used in a rural countryside. It still looks great but not like a prototype railroad. For a medium size layout,multiple rerailers are needed with power connected under the table. One drawback is curves,to my knowledge there is no curved powered rerailer.
Power JointersPowered track jointers are a better solution. Many modelers use track jointers to connect the track and using powered track jointers was a logical progression. This solution provides a nonvisible why of connecting power under the track. It is ideal for a layout using standard wiring or DCC. If you have low power in one area,just remove the normal track jointers and replace them with the powered type. One advantage of using powered jointers is the ability to modify your layout quickly when moving track around. One drawback though,corrosion will occur between the track jointer and the track rail. When you add a little current oxidation will occur;resistance will build up and over time the voltage will drop. Causing a locomotive to work harder or stop in the low-voltage area.
Direct Wired TrackThe directly wired track will prevent oxidation and corrosion build up. If you solder the track joints together or solder the jointers to the rails,this goes a long way in creating the best electrical environment for the train to run in. The layout and train operation are stable and normal track cleaning is the only requirement. With one or two downsides;all soldering must be done with a heat sink,two alligator clips,and you must be careful not to melt the plastic track ties. The other downside occures when change is needed;you have to cut the track to remove or change a section. If required,I use a Dremmel and cut the track at a 45° angle. This angle is to prevent a derail,when I replace the track I match the angle and resolder the joint. Now when the train enters this area the angle makes for a smooth transition.